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Fabulicious!: On the Grill Page 12
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In my family, we’re not big on going back into the kitchen to scrub dirty pots and pans after we’ve eaten, so we use a lot of disposable aluminum pans. You can’t sauté or sear a steak in them or anything, but for cooking juicy seafood and pasta and letting their flavors mingle, they’re perfect.
LEFTOVER PASTA
I hate to throw away extra food. I just can’t bring myself to do it. It feels like a sin. But more often than not, we have extra pasta left over. It’s not so great reheated the next day (although I do like it tossed in a pan with a little olive oil and some fresh herbs), and I don’t care what your grandmother says, there’s no point in freezing it.
So what can you do with leftover pasta? You can add extra sauce, put it in an oven-safe pan, top it with some cheese, and bake up a spaghetti pie. Or you can turn it into an amazing frittata.
Frittata is from the Italian word for “fry,” and while it uses eggs and cheese like a quiche, it’s fluffier and usually also contains pasta. Put a little olive oil on the bottom of an oven-safe pan, and add your leftover pasta. Depending on how much pasta you have, beat four to six eggs really well to get a lot of air into them. (A whisk is best for this job, but a fork is fine, too.) Add some salt and pepper, then pour the eggs over the pasta. Sprinkle your favorite cheese over the top—mozzarella, Pecorino Romano, fontina—and then bake at 300°F for thirty minutes, until the egg is set and the cheese is starting to brown. Let it set for another five minutes before serving. No need to even tell your guests they’re eating leftovers— they’ll never notice!
Grilled Vegetable Lasagna
Makes 9 to 12 servings
I’m not gonna lie—this is a bit of a project, but you won’t care when you hear all your guests raving, “This is the most outrageously delicious lasagna I’ve ever eaten!” And no-boil noodles cut the hassle factor down a lot. If you have any vegetarians in the family, this is one time when the tables will be turned on the carnivores, who won’t even notice that there isn’t any meat.
2 large eggplants, cut into ½-inch-thick rounds
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing the vegetables and the baking dish
½ teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning
½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepperplus more for seasoning
2 medium zucchini, cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick strips
2 red bell peppers, cut according to the instructions on page 180
4 cups (1 pound) shredded mozzarella cheese, divided
1 (15-ounce) container ricotta cheese
1 cup (4 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup finely chopped fresh basil
1 recipe “The Quickie” Tomato Sauce with Garlic (page 56)
12 no-boil lasagna noodles
1. Preheat the grill for direct cooking over medium heat (400°F).
2. Brush the eggplant rounds on both sides with the oil and season with the salt and pepper. Place the eggplant rounds directly on the grill and close the lid. Cook until the undersides are seared with grill marks, about 5 minutes. Flip the eggplant rounds and continue cooking, with the lid closed, until the other sides are seared and the eggplant is tender when pierced with the tip of a small knife, about 5 minutes more. Transfer to a platter.
3. Repeat with the zucchini slices, cooking until just tender, with the lid closed as much as possible, about 5 minutes total. Transfer to the platter with the eggplant.
4. Increase the grill temperature to high (500°F). Place the peppers on the grill and cook according to the instructions on page 178. Coarsely chop the peppers and add to the platter.
5. Put 3 cups of the mozzarella in a medium bowl, reserving the remaining mozzarella for the topping. Add the ricotta, Parmesan, and basil to the bowl and mix well. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
6. Lightly oil a 13 × 9–inch baking dish that is at least 2 inches deep. Spread ¾ cup of the tomato sauce in the bottom of the dish. Top with 4 overlapping lasagna noodles, one-third of the remaining tomato sauce, and half of the cheese mixture, spread as evenly as possible. Arrange half of the vegetables as evenly as possible over the cheese mixture. Repeat with 4 more noodles, the remaining cheese mixture, half of the remaining tomato sauce, and the remaining vegetables. Finish with the remaining noodles, spread with the remaining tomato sauce, and sprinkle the reserved mozzarella on top. Cover loosely with an oiled piece of aluminum foil, oiled side down, tenting the foil so it does not touch the cheese. (The lasagna can be refrigerated for 2 hours before cooking.)
7. Preheat the grill for indirect cooking with medium-low heat (350°).
8. Place the baking dish on the grill over the unignited burner(s) and close the grill lid. Cook for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and continue cooking until the sauce is bubbling and the mozzarella topping is golden brown, about 30 minutes more. Remove the baking dish from the grill. Let stand for 15 minutes. Cut into serving portions and serve hot.
Note: You can bake the lasagna in a preheated 350°F oven, if you prefer.
Ziti with Grilled Meatballs and Tomato Sauce
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Grilling meatballs not only adds extra flavor to them, but it also keeps your stove clean from annoying grease splatters. You’ll want to cook the meatballs on a perforated grill pan, or use a perforated meatball holder specifically made for grilling. If you use the holder, just shape the meatball mixture, put the balls in the oiled holder, and grill for about six minutes per side.
Meatballs:
1 pound ground round beef
½ cup Italian-seasoned dry bread crumbs
½ cup milk (preferably 2%)
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 large egg, beaten
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 garlic cloves, minced
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing and for the pan
1 recipe “The Quickie” Tomato Sauce with Garlic (page 56)
½teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound ziti or other tube-shaped pasta
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving
1. To make the meatballs: Combine the ground round, bread crumbs, milk, grated Pecorino Romano cheese, egg, parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Mix everything together with clean hands. Feel for the right texture—it should be soft, but not sopping wet, so add a little more milk (if it’s too dry) or bread crumbs (if it’s too wet), if needed. Shape into 12 equal balls by gently shaping the meat mixture in your hands. Do not crush and mold the meat between your palms. Place the balls on a plate and brush all over with oil. Refrigerate the meatballs while preheating the grill.
2. Preheat the grill for direct cooking over medium heat (400°F).
3. Lightly oil a perforated grill pan, place it on the cooking grate, close the grill lid, and heat for 2 minutes. Place the meatballs on the pan. Cook, with the lid closed as much as possible, turning the meatballs occasionally with a metal spatula, until browned on all sides, about 12 minutes. The meatballs do not have to be cooked through. Remove the pan from the grill.
4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat.
5. Bring the tomato sauce and red pepper flakes to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the grilled meatballs and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the meatballs show no sign of pink when pierced in the center, about 15 minutes.
6. Add the ziti to the water and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Drain well. Return the pasta to the pot. Add the sauce and meatballs and mix well.
7. Transfer to a serving bowl. Serve hot with the Parmesan cheese passed on the side.
* * *The Pasta Monster* * *
An idea of how much we love our pasta in Italy? Instead of saying you caught someone with their hand “in the cookie jar,” we say beccare con le mani in pasta, which means caught with your hand in the pa
sta.
Penne with Grilled Portobellos and Creamy Pesto
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Italians don’t cook with heavy cream a lot . . . unlike the French, who put it in everything. So, when I use it, you know the dish is really special. That’s how I feel about this pasta, which has meaty grilled mushrooms, zesty pesto, and sinfully rich cream. And it’s a perfect example of how a jar of (homemade) pesto in your fridge can make a meal magical.
6 (4-inch) portobello mushroom caps
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing the mushrooms
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound penne or other tubeshaped pasta
½ cup Homemade Pesto (facing page)
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
⅓ cup heavy cream
1. Preheat the grill for direct cooking over medium heat (400°F).
2. Brush the mushrooms on both sides with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on the cooking grate, gill-sides up, and close the grill lid. Cook until the undersides are seared with grill marks, about 3 minutes. Flip the mushrooms and continue cooking, with the lid closed, until tender, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the penne and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Scoop out and reserve ½ cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta well. Return the pasta to the pot.
4. Cut the mushrooms into bite-size pieces. Add to the pot of pasta, along with the pesto, Parmesan cheese, and cream. Stir, adding enough of the pasta water to make a light sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot, with additional Parmesan cheese passed on the side.
Homemade Pesto
Makes about 1 cup
Pesto is a magical ingredient, and during the summer, when basil is cheap at our local farmer and markets, I made big batches to put in everything. (OK, maybe not on dessert . . .) If you want to freeze it, don’t put the cheese in or top with oil before freezing. When ready to serve, thaw for a few hours at room temperature (don’t use the microwave or the pesto will turn dark), and then add as much cheese as you like.
⅓ cup pine nuts
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1½ cups packed fresh basil leaves
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
⅔ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more if storing for later use
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool completely.
2. Fit a food processor with a metal chopping blade. With the machine running, drop the garlic through the feed tube to mince it. Add the toasted pine nuts and pulse until finely chopped. Add the basil leaves and pulse until finely chopped. Add the cheese and pulse to combine. With the machine running, gradually pour in the oil. (You can also do this in batches in a blender, stopping the blender occasionally to stir down the ingredients.) Add the salt and pepper.
3. Transfer the pesto to an airtight container. Pour in enough oil to cover the pesto with a thin film. (This seals the pesto and helps keep it from molding.) Refrigerate for up to 6 weeks. (Or, omit the cheese and final oil topping, and freeze for up to 6 months. Thaw at room temperature before using.)
Spaghetti with Grilled Tuna Puttanesca
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Pardon my French, but puttana is the Italian word for “whore.” Puttanesca then is anything that is made in the “whore’s style,” which means thrown together quickly and cheaply. (Ain’t that the truth?) Puttanesca traditionally uses (stinky) canned tuna, but we’re going to class it up a bit (meaning, this recipe isn’t as quick or cheap!) and use delicious grilled tuna steaks and fresh (instead of the usual canned) tomatoes. See, the good girl’s way is always better!
Sauce:
3 pounds plum (Roma) tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing the tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup packed basil leaves
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ cup pitted and coarsely chopped Kalamata olives
3 tablespoons drained and rinsed capers, chopped if large
2 tablespoons drained chopped anchovy fillets
Tuna:
2 tuna steaks (each 6 ounces and cut 1 inch thick)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound spaghetti
1. Preheat the grill for indirect cooking with medium heat (400°F).
2. To make the sauce: Arrange the tomatoes, cut sides up, in a metal roasting pan. Brush lightly with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the pan over the unignited burner(s) and close the lid. Cook until the tomatoes are very tender and their edges are browned, about 1 hour. Remove the pan from the grill.
3. Preheat the grill for direct cooking over high heat (500°F).
4. To make the tuna: Lightly brush the tuna on both sides with oil and season with the salt and pepper. Place the tuna on the cooking grate and close the grill. Cook until the undersides are seared with grill marks, about 2½ minutes. Flip the tuna and continue cooking, with the lid closed, until the other sides are seared and the tuna is opaque on the outside with a rosy pink center when cut with a small sharp knife, about 2½ minutes more. Transfer the tuna to a plate.
5. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the package directions until al dente.
6. While the pasta is cooking, finish the sauce: Heat ¼ cup of the oil and the garlic in a large saucepan over medium heat until the garlic is tender, but not browned, about 2 minutes. Pour the garlic oil into a food processor and add the tomatoes, basil, and red pepper flakes. Process the tomato mixture until coarsely chopped. Return the tomato sauce to the saucepan. (If you don’t have a food processor, add the tomatoes to the garlic oil in the saucepan and break up the tomatoes with a potato masher to make a chunky sauce. Chop the basil and stir it into the sauce, with the red pepper flakes.)
7. Add the olives, capers, and anchovies to the tomato sauce and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Cut the tuna into bite-size pieces. Add to the tomato sauce, stir well, and remove from the heat.
8. Drain the pasta well. Return to its cooking pot. Add the sauce and stir to combine. Serve hot.
Fusilli with Grilled Sausages, Zucchini, and Ricotta
Makes 4 to 6 servings
In a perfect world, you would time the sausage and zucchini to come off the grill when the pasta is just finished cooking. Don’t worry if they cool off a bit though, because they will heat up again when mixed with the hot pasta. Leave out the sausage, if you wish, for a vegetarian version.
6 links sweet Italian sausage (about 1¼ pounds), each pierced with a fork
3 large zucchini, cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices
Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing the zucchini
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound fusilli
1 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes
½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano
Red pepper flakes
¾ cup ricotta cheese
1. Preheat the grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat (450°F).
2. Place the sausages directly on the grate and close the grill lid. Cook, turning occasionally, until the sausages are cooked through, about 12 minutes. Transfer the sausages to a platter and tent with aluminum foil.
3. Brush the zucchini on both sides with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on the grate, perpendicu
lar to the grid, and close the lid. Cook until the undersides are seared with grill marks, about 2 ½ minutes. Flip the zucchini and continue cooking, with the lid closed, until they are crisp-tender, about 2½ minutes more. Add the zucchini to the platter and tent with foil.
4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the fusilli and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Scoop out and reserve ½ cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot.
5. Cut the sausages and zucchini into bite-size pieces. Add them to the pasta, along with the tomatoes, Romano, and oregano. Stir, adding enough of the pasta cooking water to make a light sauce. Season with salt and red pepper flakes. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the ricotta. Toss and serve hot, with additional Romano cheese passed on the side.
Jersey Shore Seafood Pasta
Makes 6 to 8 servings
This is another classic aluminum-pan-on-the-grill recipe. My dad is the expert in making this dish, and he loves to throw the cooked linguini directly into the pan on the grill, right on top of the seafood, so the pasta gets all “juiced” up. Try to time the pasta so it’s done about the same time as the seafood. If things don’t seem to be cooking at the same rate, just use tongs to transfer the cooked items to a bowl and cover with foil to keep warm.
This makes serving to company a bit of a challenge though, so I’m giving you directions on how to keep it all pretty for plating. There are a few options for the seafood, so enjoy your favorites. Just be sure to allow time to soak the clams or mussels.
1½ pounds linguine